How to Stop a Dog Pulling on the Lead (For Good) | MK9Plus
Free guide · Lead walking

How to stop a dog
pulling on the lead

The short answer

Train eye contact, not heel. A dog cannot look up at you and pull ahead at the same time, so a dog who learns that looking at you pays walks beside you as a byproduct. But that training only holds if you also fix why your dog is so desperate to get ahead in the first place.

Pulling, in one picture

Hold a lead in both hands. Your end walks at three miles an hour. The dog's end wants seven. That's pulling. That's the whole thing.

The lead, both ends
You: 3 mph Dog: wants 7 You Looking = level Chicken banked Back to business

The pulling walk. Your end does 3 mph. The dog's end wants 7. Pulling is just the gap.

Reward the check-in. A dog looking up at you cannot also drive out in front. Pay the glance and the position sorts itself.

Five seconds after the treat. The world still pays more than you do, so the dog banks your chicken and gets back to business.

"Pulling on the lead is just a dog wanting to do stuff over there. That's all it is."

Train this instead of heel

Skip the heel drills. A dog cannot drive out in front of you and look up at you at the same time, so pay the look. The loose lead comes free.

Step 1

Catch the glance

Boring room, no distractions, say nothing. The second your dog looks at you, mark it. Let them work out what made the food happen.

Step 2

Pay by your leg

The food always arrives at your trouser seam. The dog starts hanging around that exact spot, because that's where the good stuff lands.

Step 3

Add the world

Room, garden, quiet street, then real walks. The full step-by-step, taught with a dog who'd never done it, is the Everything Lead Walking lesson.

"He takes the treat. Then goes straight back to pulling."

Someone asked me this at the end of my last webinar, so I stood up and grabbed a lead. Because here's the bit nobody tells you: the training worked. Your dog learned that looking at you pays. That's why they take the chicken.

Then they shoot straight back out front. Not confused. Desperate. The smell, the park, the dog across the road are all paying more than you are. Your dog knows exactly what you want them to do. It just isn't benefiting them.

"You're trying to train a dog that's not ready yet."

So the real question is: why is your dog that desperate? This next bit is the most useful thing I'll ever show you about your walks.

See the walk through your dog's eyes

Your dog isn't naughty. They're thirsty.

Not for water. For doing stuff: sniffing, chasing, finding, shredding, being a dog. When those needs aren't met at home, your dog leaves the house parched. And out there?

Tap to switch views
a lamppost water a smell water a squirrel big water another dog a swimming pool
Your dog's thirst

Through your dog's eyes: the lamppost is water, the smell is water, the squirrel is big water, and that spaniel across the road is a swimming pool. A thirsty dog isn't ignoring you. They're drinking.

You cannot train thirst away. Every "stop pulling, leave it, this way" just makes you the barrier between a parched dog and the water. That's why the treat stops working, and why being firmer won't work either.

The actual fix

Quench the thirst. Then train the look.

90% · The dog

Fill them up at home

Real sniffing work, proper outlets for what their breed was built to do, actual sleep. A provided-for dog walks out the door with the tank full, and the bowls out there stop mattering so much.

10% · The training

Now the look sticks

Eye contact on a dog who isn't desperate becomes a habit in a couple of weeks. Same training, different dog, completely different result.

"A dog walking nicely on the lead is just a dog walking at the same speed as you. You don't need to train that. The dog just needs to slow down a bit."

The catch? What quenches your dog depends on what they were bred to do. A collie's water is not a beagle's water is not a spaniel's water. Working that out for your exact dog, and building it into a day that actually fits your life, is literally what MK9Plus is.

Find your dog's water →

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Real member: Amy

Two pulling dogs. Zero lead training.

Amy's dogs both pulled on the lead. She didn't fix it with heel work, gadgets or corrections. She quenched the thirst, and the pulling went with it. Here she is telling it herself:

Watch Amy's interview, with the rest of the member stories, on the MK9Plus reviews page.

Fair questions about pulling on the lead

The ones owners actually ask me, answered straight.

Why does my dog take the treat and then go straight back to pulling?
Because the treat pays for the glance, but the world pays for the pulling. Your dog knows exactly what you want. It just isn't benefiting them enough while they're that desperate to get ahead. Fix the arousal, frustration and unmet needs behind the desperation and the exact same training suddenly holds.
Is my dog pulling to be dominant?
No. Dominance theory in pet dogs was debunked years ago. Your dog is pulling because their end of the lead wants to move faster than your end: excitement, smells, frustration, habit. It's a speed gap, not a power grab.
Do harnesses make dogs pull more?
No. A harness just removes the discomfort a collar adds, so a dog who was already desperate pulls more comfortably. I still recommend a well-fitted Y-shaped harness and a longer lead: in the Dogfield Study, dogs sniffed 280 percent more on a longer lead, and a dog using their nose is a calmer dog. If your dog only pulls when the harness goes on, that's an association problem. Do your training and scent games with the harness on so harness on means good stuff happens.
Should I use a slip lead or a front-clip harness to stop the pulling?
They stop pulling the way a stone in your shoe stops you running: discomfort and avoidance. The desperation underneath is untouched, so it leaks out somewhere else, and the moment the tool comes off you have the same dog. I'd rather you spend that effort fixing why the dog is pulling.
My dog only pulls for the first ten minutes of the walk. Why?
That's arousal from leaving the house, not a training gap. Calm the pre-walk routine down, spend the first part of the walk on a long line letting them sniff the buzz off, and save your loose lead work for later in the walk, once your dog can actually hear you.
How long does it take to stop a dog pulling on the lead?
Honest answer: it depends on the dog's state, not on the drills. The eye contact habit itself takes a couple of weeks to build in quiet places. Whether it survives the real world depends on how thirsty your dog is. Amy's two dogs stopped pulling with no lead training at all, because the thirst went first.
Don't de-dog your dog

Fix the dog, then train the walk

The Whole Dog Approach quenches what's driving the desperation first, so the eye contact training holds on every walk, without a pocket full of chicken forever.

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Written by Max Randall, IMDT-qualified and OCN-accredited dog trainer · More free dog training guides · The philosophy: Don't De-Dog Your Dog · FAQ